I recently made a natural cotton twill Unfolding Jacket in the Mid length for my friend Nadia to try on, and since the fabric was a bit heavier I thought it would be nice to leave the jacket unlined. This version without lining makes a great garment for warmer weather. The project was less expensive since it required less fabric, and it was quicker to sew.
Before I jump into the project notes, I want to mention sizing. Nadia is wearing a size XL here, and it looks beautiful on her. She's 5'5" tall, and her measurements are 46” bust, 39” waist, and 50” hip. Technically, these measurements fall outside of the size chart you see on the back of the pattern. However, the jacket still fits Nadia comfortably. It’s just a more fitted look than what you see pictured on the model in the pattern. I love both looks!
*Just note that if you’re at the smaller end of the size chart and you choose to size down, the sleeve will get a little shorter because of how the jacket is constructed and graded. If you’re petite it shouldn’t be an issue, but if you’re tall you might want to rethink sizing down if you’d like the sleeve to hit at your wrist.*Pattern Changes:
-Added an extra ⅜” length to the bottom of the Front and Back pattern pieces for the hem. Finished the hem at the bottom of the jacket by pressing it ⅜” to the wrong side twice and edgestitching.
-Added 1" extra length to the pocket. Pressed the side and bottom edges of pocket ⅜” to the wrong side. Then pressed the top edge ⅜” and then 1" to the wrong side before edgestitching top of pocket hem.
-Finished the seam allowance by serging.
-Did NOT interface the Collar because of how thick the fabric was.
Pieces to Cut:
-Large Pocket: cut 2
-Front: cut 2
-Back: cut 1 on fold
-Sleeve: cut 2
-Upper Collar: cut 2
-Under Collar: cut 2
-Followed the fabric requirements from the LINING chart ONLY to figure out how much fabric I would need for the entire unlined jacket.