Shift Hack: Forward Shoulder Adjustment

Melizza (@melizzamakes), one of our wonderful pattern testers for the Shift, noticed that when she wore her muslin the neckline tended to slip backward as she moved.  She figured out that she needed to do a forward shoulder adjustment to her pattern before making the Shift in her final fabric.  Not everyone will need this adjustment, but some people's shoulders protrude forward.  (Mine certainly do!)  You can tell this is the case if the shoulder seam of the garment sits toward the back of the shoulder instead of the center.

This is an easy fix to make to your pattern pieces, and we'll show you how!

 Shift Dress with Pockets and Waist Tie

 

1. DETERMINE HOW FAR TO MOVE THE SHOULDER SEAM FORWARD

After you make your muslin, wear it around to see if you encounter any slipping back of the garment.  The dress version of this pattern will be more likely to have this effect since there's more fabric in the back that's gathered.  Check out the shoulder seam in the mirror and measure how far the seam sits behind the center of your shoulder.  If you can't tell, start by trying a 1/2" adjustment.

 

2. MARK NEW SHOULDER LINE ON PATTERN FRONT AND FRONT NECK FACING 

Draw a line across shoulder 1/2" (or whatever measurement you require) down from shoulder line on Front pattern piece.  Do the same for the Front Neck Facing.

Forward Shoulder Adjustment

 3. CUT PAPER ON NEW SHOULDER LINE

Cut across the lines you've just drawn, removing the top 1/2" (or whatever your measurement was) from the Front shoulder and Front Neck Facing shoulder.

Forward Shoulder Adjustment4. ATTACH CUT OFF STRIPS TO BACK SHOULDER

With edges touching, tape 1/2" strip from Front shoulder to Top Back (if making Top) or Back Yoke (if making dress).  Repeat for Back Neck Facing.

Forward Shoulder Adjustment

If you're adding the 3/4 sleeve, make sure you move the notch at the top of the sleeve 1/2" toward the back to match your new shoulder line.  

 Melizza

Melizza made her Shift Dress using the Linen in Rust from our website.

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