The Shift Dress + Top is meant to have a very loose fit, especially in the body, and slightly less so in the arms. It's a style designed for comfort and ease. Often people say that Wiksten women's patterns run big, based on their experience with the Haori. That's because we like an oversized look. If that's not your thing, you may want to size down from what's recommended on the pattern. If you choose to do so, make sure the bicep won't end up too tight. We recommend choosing your size mainly based on the bust and bicep measurements.
If you look at the body measurements and the finished garment measurements, you'll notice there's a lot of ease. Look through your wardrobe for a similar garment that fits you the way you want and measure and compare to the Shift's finished garment measurements. We only list the circumference at the hip, but it's the same for the bust and waist.
Most people's measurements don't fit neatly into categories on a size chart. It doesn't matter so much with this style since it's basically shaped like a box. We've included a waist tie option for those that want to give it more shape. I've tried on a few different sizes, and I can fit into and be comfortable in 4 different sizes in this pattern just fine. However my favorite fit is the one that stays true to the size chart.
Below you'll see photos of some of our testers wearing different variations of the style in different sizes with measurements listed so that you can get a general idea of how the Shift looks on different body types. I love how it looks on everyone we tried it on! We worked for a really long time on getting the grading and fit right for all of the sizes. In fact the size 20 fit model tried on about 5 different samples until we got the proportions just right.
Bust: 31 1/2"
Hip: 37 1/2"
Bust: 33 1/2"
Hip: 34 1/2"
Bicep: 9 3/4"
Bicep: 12 1/2"
Hip: 47 1/2"
Bust: 47 1/2"
*Adjustments: square shoulder/full bicep adjustment (tutorial coming soon) to add 1" to sleeve circumference
Hip: 48 1/2"
*Adjustments: square shoulder/full bicep adjustment (tutorial coming soon) and forward shoulder adjustment (tutorial coming soon)
We hope that seeing the Shift in different sizes will help you find the right fit for yourself. Some people are more particular than others about how a garment fits their body, so we'll be providing some information on common fit adjustments that might be needed very soon.
*Note that the size 22 testers both made fit adjustments, but we also tried the dress on two other size 22 friends that did not need bicep adjustments. Every body is different, and it's not possible to create a style that will work perfectly for everyone right out of the package. With the modifications we'll be posting about, we hope to provide a fit that will work for a wide range of people.
You know those cute, cropped, straight leg pants that are so popular in women's fashion right now? Fall is unquestionably creeping in here in Oregon, and the transitional weather is perfect for this style. So of course I had to make a pair for Iris!
Did you know that a pattern for these is included in our Bloomers pattern? All you have to do is make the pants version and leave out the elastic at the leg openings, which makes them even faster to sew.
The crop is built in to the pattern already. For this pair, I used a beautiful black linen and added an extra hem allowance to sew a wide, 2" finished hem for a nice detail. A benefit of adding hem allowance here is that as your child grows, you have the option of letting out a little length. I also added extra waistband hem allowance to mine to make the waistband wider. Neither of those changes is necessary for a cute pair of pants though.
I recently made a natural cotton twill Unfolding Jacket in the Mid length for my friend Nadia to try on, and since the fabric was a bit heavier I thought it would be nice to leave the jacket unlined. This version without lining makes a great garment for warmer weather. The project was less expensive since it required less fabric, and it was quicker to sew.
Before I jump into the project notes, I want to mention sizing. Nadia is wearing a size XL here, and it looks beautiful on her. She's 5'5" tall, and her measurements are 46” bust, 39” waist, and 50” hip. Technically, these measurements fall outside of the size chart you see on the back of the pattern. However, the jacket still fits Nadia comfortably. It’s just a more fitted look than what you see pictured on the model in the pattern. I love both looks!
*Just note that if you’re at the smaller end of the size chart and you choose to size down, the sleeve will get a little shorter because of how the jacket is constructed and graded. If you’re petite it shouldn’t be an issue, but if you’re tall you might want to rethink sizing down if you’d like the sleeve to hit at your wrist.*Pattern Changes:
-Added an extra ⅜” length to the bottom of the Front and Back pattern pieces for the hem. Finished the hem at the bottom of the jacket by pressing it ⅜” to the wrong side twice and edgestitching.
-Added 1" extra length to the pocket. Pressed the side and bottom edges of pocket ⅜” to the wrong side. Then pressed the top edge ⅜” and then 1" to the wrong side before edgestitching top of pocket hem.
-Finished the seam allowance by serging.
-Did NOT interface the Collar because of how thick the fabric was.
Pieces to Cut:
-Large Pocket: cut 2
-Front: cut 2
-Back: cut 1 on fold
-Sleeve: cut 2
-Upper Collar: cut 2
-Under Collar: cut 2
-Followed the fabric requirements from the LINING chart ONLY to figure out how much fabric I would need for the entire unlined jacket.