The new pattern is coming on Tuesday, April 16! Let's talk about sizing, so you'll be ready to pick your fabric. (All of the fit testers below except Emma are wearing garments made from fabric that will be available on the website Tuesday along with the pattern launch.)
Here are the charts. As you can see, the pattern comes with sizes US women's 0-22. We're currently working on a PDF with more sizes for a summer release. It will be specifically drafted for a figure that's fuller than what's in our current range and be based on a size 20 sample size, going up to a 60" bust. The second range will have slightly different proportions, including a bigger bicep. If the size charts here don't seem like a good fit for you, you may want to wait for that.
The Shift Dress + Top is meant to have a very loose fit, especially in the body, and slightly less so in the arms. It's a style designed for comfort and ease. Often people say that Wiksten women's patterns run big, based on their experience with the Haori. That's because we like an oversized look. If that's not your thing, you may want to size down from what's recommended on the pattern. If you choose to do so, make sure the bicep won't end up too tight. We recommend choosing your size mainly based on the bust and bicep measurements.
If you look at the body measurements and the finished garment measurements, you'll notice there's a lot of ease. Look through your wardrobe for a similar garment that fits you the way you want and measure and compare to the Shift's finished garment measurements. We only list the circumference at the hip, but it's the same for the bust and waist.
Most people's measurements don't fit neatly into categories on a size chart. It doesn't matter so much with this style since it's basically shaped like a box. We've included a waist tie option for those that want to give it more shape. I've tried on a few different sizes, and I can fit into and be comfortable in 4 different sizes in this pattern just fine. However my favorite fit is the one that stays true to the size chart.
Below you'll see photos of some of our testers wearing different variations of the style in different sizes with measurements listed so that you can get a general idea of how the Shift looks on different body types. I love how it looks on everyone we tried it on! We worked for a really long time on getting the grading and fit right for all of the sizes. In fact the size 20 fit model tried on about 5 different samples until we got the proportions just right.
Bust: 31 1/2"
Hip: 37 1/2"
Bust: 33 1/2"
Hip: 34 1/2"
Bicep: 9 3/4"
Bicep: 12 1/2"
Hip: 47 1/2"
Bust: 47 1/2"
*Adjustments: square shoulder/full bicep adjustment (tutorial coming soon) to add 1" to sleeve circumference
Hip: 48 1/2"
*Adjustments: square shoulder/full bicep adjustment (tutorial coming soon) and forward shoulder adjustment (tutorial coming soon)
We hope that seeing the Shift in different sizes will help you find the right fit for yourself. Some people are more particular than others about how a garment fits their body, so we'll be providing some information on common fit adjustments that might be needed very soon.
*Note that the size 22 testers both made fit adjustments, but we also tried the dress on two other size 22 friends that did not need bicep adjustments. Every body is different, and it's not possible to create a style that will work perfectly for everyone right out of the package. With the modifications we'll be posting about and with our second size range coming soon, we hope to provide a fit that will work for a wide range of people.
Image of Haori worn over Kimono from Vintage Japan-esque on Flickr
First, we want to offer our sincere gratitude for your warm reception of our first adult sewing pattern in several years. We are deeply appreciative of your support and enthusiasm, and so thrilled that many of you have found in this pattern a true workhorse and needed addition to your wardrobes - handmade or otherwise!
Next, we have an announcement to make: moving forward, this pattern will be titled the Wiksten Haori.
This jacket takes obvious inspiration from the beautiful, historical clothing styles of Japan. It was originally named using the word "Kimono" for a variety of reasons: of course to acknowledge it's Japanese inspiration, but also in reference to the style of sleeve construction that is widely referred to in pattern drafting books as a "Kimono Sleeve."¹
However, it has been brought to our attention that such a name was not appropriate for the style of garment. In fact, a "kimono jacket," the garment worn over the traditional long, belted kimono, is called a Haori. Given the function and style of the pattern, the name Haori is the most appropriate fit for the Wiksten jacket pattern. Emi Ito, a teacher who is active in the slow-fashion community on social media, says: "[I]n my vision, ethical fashion [...] honors and respects the cultures that inspire their silhouettes[.] My wish is for slow fashion makers and brands to be a bit more intentional and thoughtful about naming items more accurately."
At Wiksten, we believe deeply in moving through the world kindly; cultural sensitivity and a responsible "citing of sources" is an important part of doing so. We want to acknowledge our mistake in the original naming of this pattern, and thank you for welcoming it into the world with its new and better-suited name.
We also want to extend our heartfelt thanks to the people who generously took time to help educate us about these terms - in particular, Emi Ito (@little_kotos_closet on Instagram) and our local Portland friends Haruna Wilson and Miyoko Cancro. Their insights and feedback have been hugely important in helping us correct this error, and we so appreciate their time, generosity, and feedback.
The Wiksten Haori will be in reprint soon (thank you again for all your orders!) so you will notice the name change appear slowly in the physical printed patterns, though as of today the change is live in the webshop. Thank you for reading, and thank you for keeping our community learning and growing!
When I first started Wiksten, it was a clothing line. It eventually turned into a pattern company, but sometimes I still miss selling ready-to-wear clothing. When Jen Garrido suggested we do a collaboration together with my Kimono Jacket design and her Dashes & Moons print (my fave), I jumped at the chance to have my design produced without having to commit to doing a full-time clothing line again. At Wiksten we often get requests for ready-to-wear garments from people who don't sew, so it's exciting to finally be able to offer them something too.
I think these jackets are really special! First of all, they're my most favorite color, and I adore the fabric. We're only making a small batch, and they're ethically made here in the US. First the fabric is screen printed, the jacket is sewn, and then each piece is garment-dyed and washed.
This is a great layering piece made from thick yet soft fabric. You can wear it in warmer months, but it's roomy enough to wear over a sweater. It's somewhere between a bathrobe/cardigan and a jean jacket, which to me is perfect because comfort is my priority.
The jacket comes in one size, which is comparable to the Wiksten size XS. The reason for this is that I've found many people in sizes XS-L have been making the size XS Kimono Jacket anyways. Many people like that size, since it's flattering for smaller people to go more oversized and for larger people to wear it more fitted. For reference, the jacket is modeled here on Jen, who's 5'3" tall and normally wears a size XS. We'll be posting more photos here soon so that you can see it on other models.
You can preorder the jacket right here!
I recently made a natural cotton twill Kimono Jacket in the Mid length for my friend Nadia to try on, and since the fabric was a bit heavier I thought it would be nice to leave the jacket unlined. This version without lining makes a great garment for warmer weather. The project was less expensive since it required less fabric, and it was quicker to sew.
Before I jump into the project notes, I want to mention sizing. Nadia is wearing a size XL here, and it looks beautiful on her. She's 5'5" tall, and her measurements are 46” bust, 39” waist, and 50” hip. Technically, these measurements fall outside of the size chart you see on the back of the pattern. However, the jacket still fits Nadia comfortably. It’s just a more fitted look than what you see pictured on the model in the pattern. I love both looks!
*Just note that if you’re at the smaller end of the size chart and you choose to size down, the sleeve will get a little shorter because of how the jacket is constructed and graded. If you’re petite it shouldn’t be an issue, but if you’re tall you might want to rethink sizing down if you’d like the sleeve to hit at your wrist.*Pattern Changes:
-Added an extra ⅜” length to the bottom of the Front and Back pattern pieces for the hem. Finished the hem at the bottom of the jacket by pressing it ⅜” to the wrong side twice and edgestitching.
-Added 1" extra length to the pocket. Pressed the side and bottom edges of pocket ⅜” to the wrong side. Then pressed the top edge ⅜” and then 1" to the wrong side before edgestitching top of pocket hem.
-Finished the seam allowance by serging.
-Did NOT interface the Collar because of how thick the fabric was.
Pieces to Cut:
-Large Pocket: cut 2
-Front: cut 2
-Back: cut 1 on fold
-Sleeve: cut 2
-Upper Collar: cut 2
-Under Collar: cut 2
-Followed the fabric requirements from the LINING chart ONLY to figure out how much fabric I would need for the entire unlined jacket.