Wiksten x Jenny Pennywood Jacket Collaboration

Wiksten x Jenny Pennywood Kimono JacketWiksten x Jenny Pennywood Kimono JacketWiksten x Jenny Pennywood Kimono JacketWiksten x Jenny Pennywood Kimono Jacket

When I first started Wiksten, it was a clothing line.  It eventually turned into a pattern company, but sometimes I still miss selling ready-to-wear clothing.  When Jen Garrido suggested we do a collaboration together with my Kimono Jacket design and her Dashes & Moons print (my fave), I jumped at the chance to have my design produced without having to commit to doing a full-time clothing line again.  At Wiksten we often get requests for ready-to-wear garments from people who don't sew, so it's exciting to finally be able to offer them something too.

I think these jackets are really special!  First of all, they're my most favorite color, and I adore the fabric.  We're only making a small batch, and they're ethically made here in the US.  First the fabric is screen printed, the jacket is sewn, and then each piece is garment-dyed and washed.

This is a great layering piece made from thick yet soft fabric.  You can wear it in warmer months, but it's roomy enough to wear over a sweater.  It's somewhere between a bathrobe/cardigan and a jean jacket, which to me is perfect because comfort is my priority.

The jacket comes in one size, which is comparable to the Wiksten size XS.  The reason for this is that I've found many people in sizes XS-L have been making the size XS Kimono Jacket anyways.  Many people like that size, since it's flattering for smaller people to go more oversized and for larger people to wear it more fitted.  For reference, the jacket is modeled here on Jen, who's 5'3" tall and normally wears a size XS.  We'll be posting more photos here soon so that you can see it on other models.

You can preorder the jacket right here!

Kimono Jacket Without Lining in size XL

Kimono Jacket Without LiningKimono Jacket Without Lining

I recently made a natural cotton twill Kimono Jacket in the Mid length for my friend Nadia to try on, and since the fabric was a bit heavier I thought it would be nice to leave the jacket unlined.  This version without lining makes a great garment for warmer weather. The project was less expensive since it required less fabric, and it was quicker to sew.

Before I jump into the project notes, I want to mention sizing.  Nadia is wearing a size XL here, and it looks beautiful on her. She's 5'5" tall, and her measurements are 46” bust, 39” waist, and 50” hip.  Technically, these measurements fall outside of the size chart you see on the back of the pattern. However, the jacket still fits Nadia comfortably.  It’s just a more fitted look than what you see pictured on the model in the pattern. I love both looks!

*Just note that if you’re at the smaller end of the size chart and you choose to size down, the sleeve will get a little shorter because of how the jacket is constructed and graded.  If you’re petite it shouldn’t be an issue, but if you’re tall you might want to rethink sizing down if you’d like the sleeve to hit at your wrist.*

Pattern Changes:
-Added an extra ⅜” length to the bottom of the Front and Back pattern pieces for the hem.  Finished the hem at the bottom of the jacket by pressing it ⅜” to the wrong side twice and edgestitching. 
-Added 1" extra length to the pocket.  Pressed the side and bottom edges of pocket ⅜” to the wrong side.  Then pressed the top edge ⅜” and then 1" to the wrong side before edgestitching top of pocket hem.
-Finished the seam allowance by serging.  
-Did NOT interface the Collar because of how thick the fabric was.
Pieces to Cut:
-Large Pocket: cut 2
-Front: cut 2
-Back: cut 1 on fold
-Sleeve: cut 2
-Upper Collar: cut 2
-Under Collar: cut 2
Yardage Requirements:
-Followed the fabric requirements from the LINING chart ONLY to figure out how much fabric I would need for the entire unlined jacket.

Kimono Jacket in Short Length

Short Kimono JacketShort Kimono JacketShort Kimono JacketShort Kimono JacketShort Kimono JacketShort Kimono Jacket

Kimono Jacket in Mid Length

Mid Length Kimono JacketMid Length Kimono JacketMid Length Kimono JacketMid Length Kimono JacketMid Length Kimono Jacket

Indigo Dyeing a Kimono Jacket

Garment Dyeing a Kimono Jacket with IndigoGarment Dyeing a Kimono Jacket with IndigoGarment Dyeing a Kimono Jacket with IndigoGarment Dyeing a Kimono Jacket with IndigoGarment Dyeing a Kimono Jacket with IndigoThe indigo Kimono Jacket featured on the cover of the pattern was dyed using a kit you can find here.  We used one of our Kimono Fabric Bundles in the color Natural to make the jacket and then garment-dyed it once it was sewn.  The bundles already sold out so quickly, but more are on the way!

The Jacquard website has instructions and even videos for using their kit.  It was so fun and easy, and we found that the only downside is that it can make a bit of a mess and take up some time.  If you're going to tackle this project, we suggest doing it outside on a day with nice weather.  Plan on being nearby your project all day.  You can do other things, but you'll need to dip the jacket into the indigo every 20 minutes or so until you get the shade you want.

Elizabeth headed up this project, and you can see her in action here.  We followed the Jacquard directions, and ended up dipping the jacket five times to achieve a rich, dark shade of indigo.  After the jacket was finished, it was washed with Synthrapol to set the dye.  As with anything dyed with indigo, the color will fade with time and washing.

One tip to pass on: if you want your thread to match your jacket (which we recommend to hide any sewing mistakes), you'll need to sew it with cotton thread and not polyester.  The cotton will take the dye, but the polyester won't.  Alternatively, you could sew your jacket with indigo-colored poly thread.